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Tavoro Falls
posted by John : February 19, 2024


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Time to cause trouble


I'm great at adventure. Pretty lousy at vacation. Relaxation isn't really my thing. And while this trip dramatically changed my perspective I still needed to get out for a walk in the woods. Or in this case, the jungle.

Finding an appropriate adventure in a new place can be tough. Best to rely on the expertise of the locals. The Remote Resort puts together day trips to the best spots. We chose to go to Bouma National Heritage Park and the Tavoro waterfalls. (The other real option was the Lavena Coastal Walk, but the heavy rains had flooded the approach so that was a nope.)

As with anything from the Resort, the day started with a boat ride. We zipped back across to Taveuni Island where we were met by our guide, Sunny. (Yup. Same guy that picked us up at the airport when we arrived.) We drove around the northern tip of the island (past the aforementioned airport) and started down the road on the other side.

Sunny was very patient and answered all our questions. He also pointed out interesting sites along the way. We stopped in his village briefly and then arrived at the entrance to the National Park. There were no other visitors. How weird is that? We're used to National Parks being packed. Heck, Mount Rainier National Park is trialing "timed entry" this year so the days of deciding to head to Sunrise or Paradise on a whim are pretty much over.

We started up the "trail" that was far too paved for my liking. Sunny assured me the pavement would end at the first waterfall about 10 minutes from the entrance. We passed two small groups on their way out. I hardly noticed because I was gawking at the flowers and plants along the way.

The first waterfall was gorgeous. Not quite as high as our local favorite, but it was a straight drop into a big pool. We opted to skip a swim and continue to the next waterfall. We were warned it was very steep and with all the rain was likely to be very, very muddy. I braced myself for Mailbox at its best, but it turned out to be much more mellow.

There were handrails and a well maintained trail sloping up the hillside. There were even switchbacks. The only real issue was the heat and the humidity. This PNW boy was not prepared for anything above 40F in February.

As we got higher we got great views back out the valley we'd come through. So much green. Not dark green like at home. This was bright green. It almost glowed. And in the distance we could see the ocean and more islands. Thank goodness clouds shielded us from the actual sun.

A little deck signaled the top of the climb. We paused for a few moments and then continued along the ridge. Finally, the trail got a little rougher. Still, it was far better than many trails I've been on at home. Plus there were crazy plants and animals all around. Lizards and crabs and birds that screamed at us until we got close enough to try and see them at which point they went silent.

The second waterfall was down a short hill partially blocked by a downed tree. Sunny said it must have come down in the last storm. He reported it and said it would be gone in the next few days. The waterfall was far smaller than the first, but because we were so close it soaked us thoroughly. There were no complaints.

We climbed a bit more and the trail got sloppy. Still not what I'd imagined, but careful foot placement was a plus. Through the trees we got our first glimpse of the third waterfall.

For whatever reason, most waterfalls in the Northwest seem to be a single stream crashing over the edge of a cliff. Sure, there are exceptions, but most were like the first two waterfalls on this hike. The third was different.

There were four active streams coming down the face. We could see where a fifth would flow if the water was higher. It looked like a Disney waterfall complete with a deep pool at the base and plants hanging overhead.

Of course, I went straight in. I've pretty much given up on the whole taking-off-your-shoes-and-whatever-else since my phone and watch are waterproof. Out of habit I took off my pack before wading in. Except, wait a minute, it's also waterproof! And where better to test that than in a Fijian river? The only issue I had is the pack's trapped air floated and threw off my balance a little. Everything inside stayed bone dry.

Have had my fun, I retreated to the shoreline and we started for home. "But aren't your shoes all wet?" you might ask. "Sure. But so where Mrs. Moosefish's because we had to wade up a trail/creek." Sunny's shoes were still dry, but only because he'd done the entire trail barefoot.

As usual, I'd fall behind taking pictures and then catch up. Sunny was surprised at how quickly we hiked which either says we're awesome or his other clients aren't so awesome. To be fair, we did slow down when we got to the steeps because a broken ankle on the mend means you go slowly. (Oh. No. Not me this time. I'm all good. It was my dear wife that broke her ankle before Christmas.)

We made good on our promise to swim in the pool below the first waterfall before squelching the rest of the way to the car. (Yes. We'd packed comfy cozies. Duh.)

At the car, Sunny broke out our fancy picnic lunch and we ate along the river. A local dog came to keep us company and was sorely disappointed when I didn't drop even a little of my food. Our ride back to the boat was uneventful and we were in the cabin when the rain started.

Perfect timing to end a perfect walk in the woods.

📍On the lands of the iTaukei people.

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